Blog

  • ELLE on Earth | Observer

    How a leading women’s magazine ruined a once-in-a-lifetime interview with fashion legend Rei Kawakubo.

    Source: ELLE on Earth | Observer

  • How Shinola Went from Shoe Polish to the Coolest Brand in America | Adweek

    You had to know your U.S. history to fully appreciate the gag on ABC’s Jimmy Kimmel Live on May 21. Two contestants, Guillermo and Yehya, stood on a set made up to look like that of a game show, as a shapely assistant presented each with a pair of luxury products—a watch and a leather shaving kit.

    Source: How Shinola Went from Shoe Polish to the Coolest Brand in America | Adweek

  • Adventures

    When I was four years old, the centre my universe was on the corner of Bradford Street and Centre road, where anything could happen. For instance, brushing my teeth was a true source of achievement and I took it very seriously, perhaps because according to my parents, I was the girl with the whitest teeth on Centre road (which runs about 15km!). Saturdays’ until dusk were spent riding my bike up and down Bradford street with little Billy and Emma from next door and Phillip and his brother from down the end of the street, they were the older kids that also had a pool in their yard and Tammy and her older sister from across road. The day was full of stopping to inspect the front yards of the neighbors we didn’t know, playing hopscotch, street cricket and even jacks. Does anyone remember jacks? The end of the street turned into another and had a large green fence with barbed wire that was the boundary of the golf course. The end of that street also represented the boundary of our world on bikes according to our parents. We never knew why exactly, and we took it seriously. Until one day when I didn’t and trundled down the street alongside that large fence and around the next corner and then next one. The houses down there sort of looked the same, just a bit darker and a bit more mysterious.. and one had a jungle garden that totally needed to be explored. I got off my bike and strode on in. There were cool flowers I hadn’t seen before. A giant ceramic frog. A pond. With fish in it! I heard a sound behind me and a man was there. I think he had white hair but I can’t be sure because while he was probably only wondering what I was doing there, I was running for my life. All of 8 steps out of the front yard and on to my bike. By now of course it was pretty much dark and by the time I rode home, and of course I got lost as I had gone so far, I was in big trouble. No bike for Maryanne for quite a while after that.

     

     

     

    A few years later, we moved. Our new back yard was adventure itself. There were grape vines hanging overhead on trellises near the back door, beyond that strawberry plants overflowed their beds. A bungalow right at the back of the yard was filled with someone else’s bric-a-brac; the most interesting kind. Oddly, an old blacked out incinerator filled the other back corner that led to a lane and the veggie patch.

     

    The centerpiece of the yard was the lemon tree. It had alter like status in the middle of the yard, on a raised square of plush green grass, hand rolled out in green velvety rolls when we first moved in. I hadn’t been allowed to walk on it, because otherwise the grass wouldn’t take if it were stepped on. So the lemon tree had been off limits, but now, the grass was thriving and the tree was mine to conquer. I gazed up at the tree and debated internally how I would approach it. Its trunk was pale and mottled, but it was smooth. A shoulder height solid branch jutted out, and lemons dangled way above my head, with a clear blue sky as their canvas. I hoisted myself up to the first branch and sat on it triumphantly. From there, going up from branch to branch was easy-peasy japanesey. There was no sound, no sign of anyone in my family to tell me no. Again. I stood up on the branch and climbed up to the next one, then one more… I was three quarters of the way up the tree. I could see the neighbor’s neighbor’s yards.   I put a foot out to move to another branch. But I missed it. In slow motion I fell down the tree, my left cheek scraped against one of those conquered branches, my foot hit another. I was on the grass.   “Maaaaaaammmmmmmm”. She couldn’t hear me. I hobbled through the yard into the kitchen, my tears stinging my burning face. There was a lot of blood for a kid. My mum screamed when she saw me. Now we were both screaming….. Dettol and band aids followed. And I still have a cool scar on my ankle to show for it.

     

    Many, many years later after finishing school and spending 10 or so years in working in banking I set off on another adventure. I was ready to leave it all behind, to have a completely different kind of life. I rented my flat out, I sold my car, my superfluous stuff, clothes, CD’s and the like …. And I bought a one-way ticket to Dusseldorf (it was the cheapest) and left. I lasted 3 days before flying to Milan….. I saw the Duomo and all of the shoe shops before spending the day in picturesque Genoa. From there my travels took me to Nice, Grasse & Monaco for what could have been Maryanne’s church tour of Europe in partial sun. But no! I redirected my travels to be guided by mouth and went on to Bouillabaisse in Marseille, Pintxos in San Sebastian, roast Pig Madrid, two weeks of tapas and sangria in Barcelona where I considered starting my new life undeterred by my lack of Spanish. But the real summer hadn’t started yet, so I decided to pass the time by heading north. Amsterdam for Jazz and Febo, Prague for late night dancing and dumplings then Vienna… for an uneventful pork schnitzel. … and finally driven by an odd desire to work and a grasp of the greek language, Santorini.. where I began my new and exciting life.. as a waitress. While Santorini is beautiful and every corner is a real life postcard, 42 days in a row of work on my feet reduced my fun ratio to about 30:70 and I thought a 60:40 ratio was a minimum. So I hopped over to Naxos and put my feet up by the sea for a week and then a friend I met in Nice got in touch and invited me to London…. 6 months earlier I had sat on my back doorstep and said to myself ‘no matter what happens, I’m not moving to London’…..

  • And Thrice Makes a Trend?

    A funny thing happened over the summer, well funny in relation to bags that is.. everyone started carrying a tote around with very unique pattern. I saw student types, I saw grandma’s, I saw people on Marylebone High Street carrying this bag. It was the IKEA siting coupled with then seeing Kate Moss carrying it on holidays – twice, in TWO colour ways – that finally made me ask “where did you get that bag”..

    As it turned out, it is Goyard ! a brand I had never heard of until that day.. and then after the summer, I saw it again in another form, it’s original form..the trunk..

    Once I checked out the website, I was in awe and totally dying for one of these bags. Aside from some websites selling what must be fakes… (as the website clearly states, they don’t sell via third parties or e-commerce)

    I love that Goyard are still independent, I love that they run a “Chic du Chien” boutique, and the best stamp of approval – Karl Lagerfeld has a personal account there – since 1972..

    gkate blue goyard kate pink goyard marion goyard

  • Take the money and run: the rise of the £1,000 tracksuit | Fashion | The Guardian

    Previously the uniform of the underdog and the outsider, the tracksuit is this year’s power suit. But if you want the hottest brands, you’re going to need your credit card …

    Source: Take the money and run: the rise of the £1,000 tracksuit | Fashion | The Guardian

  • Life’s Too Short

    “Every day is a good excuse to dress up. Wear your clothes. What are you saving up for? I’m wearing my sequins at 12 noon to lunch, and I’m wearing, you know, five cocktail rings to the supermarket”

    – Rachel Zoe

     

    rachel

  • Fashion: Scream if you want to go faster

    “Fast fashion,” is one of the plagues of the last 10 years.

    When Raf Simons, Creative Director of Christian Dior announced his resignation recently, the fashion world was shocked. To a certain extent.

    In an interview before the announcement, he explained the reality that now faces high fashion houses.

    “We did this latest collection in three weeks, Tokyo was also done in three weeks. Actually everything is done in three weeks, maximum five. And when I think back to the first couture show for Dior, in July 2012, I was concerned because we only had eight weeks.”

    He went on to explain, “And now we never have time like that. And you know? It’s clearly possible to do it, The machine is there. Of course, we have to push really hard. But you have no incubation time for ideas, and this time is very important. When you try an idea, you look at it and think, Hmm, let’s put it away for a week and think about it later. But that’s never possible now”

    You may also remember the very public breakdown of the previous Dior creative director, John Galliano, in 2011. He was subsequently fired from his job and found guilty of racist abuse. He later described how his success increased his workload and as he became a slave to his career, alcohol and drugs were the only way for him to unwind.

    It’s not just an issue at Dior.

    And then of course there was Alexander McQueen who also felt similar pressures from the industry to repeatedly produce creatively and ultimately committed suicide in 2010.

    These large fashion houses are the driving force behind this relentless pace. Only the mega corporations can really afford to put on two huge ready-to-wear shows a year, or four if you add two haute couture shows, or six if you count men’s wear. Resort and pre-fall push the number up to eight. A couple of promotional shows in Asia, Brazil, Dubai or Moscow can bring the count to 10.

    There was a time when people got excited about two seasons a year., but in fashion the bottom line is everything, and that comes from selling more. And the best way to sell more is to make people think that they need more. There is no doubt that online shopping has fed the craze for speed, and when you can’t touch the fabric or try on the outfit, the only emotion you experience is the instant gratification of the purchase and knowing that you beat everyone else to it.

    So, how did this start, we were buying a lot of stuff before the internet happened.

    At the root of it all is Consumerism. It was described by its inventors in the US of the 1920s as the idea that people could be convinced that however much they have, it isn’t enough.  Sigmund Freud invented the idea of the Self, in 1900, but it was his American nephew, Edward Bernays, who really ran with it. Beginning in the early 20th century, through a new method he called public relations, he showed the government and businesses how to convince people to want things they didn’t need. This was done by linking mass-produced goods, services and political ideas to people’s subconscious self-centered desires. It was the beginning of America’s all-consuming obsession with self, has spread across every aspect of Western culture.

    More and more of the things we buy are for our social status, for example, the latest iPhone model instead of the previous one. A new pair of jeans every six months.  Shopping uses the same “seeking” part of the brain that fuels the creative rush.It turns out that our consumerist impulse stimulates the same part of the brain that fires when we’re on the trail of a great idea. As we go through the trial and error of executing an idea – What if I tried this? Of course, while consumerism in an addictive substitute for the stimulation that comes from creative activity, it offers nowhere near the same reward in the long term.

    However it does have the effect of boosting production and economic growth in some areas, while degrading them in others.  The clothing industry is the second largest polluter in the world … second only to oil, the clothing in the UK produces millions of tonnes of carbon dioxide, waste and waste water per year. While cotton, especially organic cotton, is the worst culprit, it can still take more than 23,000 litres of water to manufacture just a T-shirt and a pair of jeans.

    So by now, you might be wondering how can I contribute to change? keeping in mind the best solution is most often, the simplest, and for me, I’ve decided to take advice from life lessons Written by a 100-Year-Old Man

     Everyone has too many clothes. Wear what you have and quit buying more.